thai language learning project

For about a year and a half now, language learning has been my favorite way to relax.

Every morning, after waking, I eat breakfast, drink coffee, and study language for an hour or two.  It sets my mood to ‘calm’ for the day.  If I get overwhelmed or stressed out with life or work- my preferred remedy is to sit down with the language books.

This year it’s thai, last year was german.  I’m inclined to learn either vietnamese or arabic next year. or javascript.

Something about the process of language acquisition must set the brain into a calming state.  Or at least it’s that way for me.  I’m sure, in part, the complete lack of deadline or purpose helps…it’s not like this is schoolwork or homework.

But onto the details:

Thai has proved, no surprise, MUCH MUCH more difficult that German. After a couple months studying german, I could partake in simple conversation, and write daily in past and future tense in my journal.  Far from perfect, but intelligible.

For about the first month of studying Thai I just focused on learning the alphabet, reading, and writing.  It’s a more complex system than ours, as I described before and, of course, just learning a new alphabet is tough.

Furthermore, Thai doesn’t use word spacing (!) and many of their words are really compounds. i.e.:

ร้านตัดผม

shop-cut-hair = barbershop

เสื้อกันหนาว

shirt-keep-out-cold = sweater

โรงรถ

large-building-car = garage

and so on.  In a way, it’s nice, because you can try to guess what new words mean.  The tricky part is figuring out where the new words begin and end since they are all clumped together.

ฉันสวมเสื้อกันหนาวที่ร้านตัดผมและรถของฉันอยู่ในโรงรถ

(that reads: I wear a sweater to the barber shop and my car is in the garage.)

Another kind of amazing feature of the language-  and I’ve heard this is kinda common in asian languages, though thai has a special abundance of them-  is the numerical classifier.  I’m not even going to try to attempt to explain what it is, but you can mentally compare it to needing to learn a different way to say “the” or “a/an” for every single noun.  There’s a better explanation of this part of language here: Thai-Language.com (my favorite online dictionary.)

One really cool thing about Thai is that there are lots of online, super-comprehensive language learning tools.  Excellent dictionaries, online tv, etc.  I just found this site the other day, written by a native-english speaking woman living in Bangkok-  and her awesome list of free online resources: womenlearnthai.com.

So far, my approach to studying has been:

1. learn to read and write the alphabet, even without knowing hardly any language.

2. study with an SRS (I use Mnemosyne)

3. Rosetta Stone level 1 (the only level available. I used Pimsleur levels 1-3 for German and prefer it; I think it better prepares you for conversation. But I wanted to see what Rosetta stone was like. Both systems are really expensive.)

4. Thai for Intermediate Learners by Benjawan Poomsan Becker- going through the lessons and doing a lot of handwriting

5.  Thai, an Essential Grammar by David Smyth – just reading this one.

6. Newest tactic: just listening to thai TV, even though I can’t understand a thing-  at fukduk.tv

7. reading blogs about thai culture and current events at www.bangkokpost.com -to stay inspired.

Final thought:  as I’ve mentioned, my non-arts schooling post 9th grade was minimal, and while I tend to speak and write english well, I have no idea how to identify parts of speech, let alone diagram a sentence.  Trying to understand subject/ object/ indirect object (necessary to speak German correctly) has proved REALLY difficult. verbs and nouns I’ve got down, :) -but structures like cases (in german, nominative, dative, accusative, genitive)  have been a mystery.  I was always trying to understand them through my understanding of english-  and it wasn’t until my Mom explained this last month-  english doesnt even have cases.

thai doesn’t either, thankfully.
:)

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more on language

since my resolution in the beginning of 2009 to learn German, I’ve become semi-obsessed with the practice of language learning.  Being in Thailand seemed an opportune time to learn an asian, tonal, language with a different alphabet.

I did learn to speak, read and write German last year, without any immersion.  I am, by no means, fluent, and have a rather crummy accent, but I can converse about practically any non-abstract topic-  you know, things done, food, going places, movies, books.  Philosophical and conceptual would be beyond my reach.  And, when speaking with German people, I definitely need them to be speaking to me. Following others’ overheard conversations is too difficult as of yet.

My approach, during the first six months, was to write in German for about an hour a day (in a journal, good for practicing tenses), study using an SRS (spaced repetition system, i.e. software that functions as build-your-own flashcards-  I use Mnemosyne)-  usually fifteen minutes a day-  and converse for an hour or two a week.

I learn by writing, or by doing.  Audio and auditory learning has never been my strong suit. (I also don’t process my thoughts out loud, which is a product of being very introverted on the Meyers Briggs scoring…)  I ought to practice more conversationally and out-loud, but, since it’s not personally as enjoyable or interesting…it doesn’t happen as frequently.

Thai, being tonal with five tones (low, middle, high, rising, falling) requires listening and speaking to achieve any practical use.  I have trouble even hearing most of the tones (rising and falling are pretty easy to hear, but the others are much trickier for me.)

So, I started by learning to read since I don’t know how to teach myself without being literate. This has evolved into pages and pages of handwriting practice, followed by learning to use keyboard inputs so I can add words to Mnemosyne or look them up online…

learning to read the tones has proved the most challenging. I expected it to be fairly straightforward, but it is, instead, a complicated formula that involves memorizing the base tone of all the consonants (41?), the vowels (45), whether a vowel is short or long, the tone marks (4), shortening & muting marks (3), consonant irregularities, and then the formula that relates all these variables to provide the syllable tone.

but I keep reminding myself, at least I don’t have to learn 3000 kanji to be literate!

(Renee’s photo of our of our typical hotel evenings.)

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street cat


caught on the streets of Bangkok…there are many semi-stray cats and dogs here…they are skinny and friendly, appear to be fed and, as in this case, decorated, but living on the streets.

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strange dessert


haven’t quite figured out what this is.  it’s a gelatineous thing made from a chinese plant and and it has an herbal flavor.  it’s served with ice cubes and brown sugar in all the markets.

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puppets


from the Chiang Mai sunday market.

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Chiang Mai Flower Festival

endless floats of  intricate sculptures completely covered in flowers.  More photos on flickr.

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big city

Bangkok is like a whirlwind; just crossing the road you’ve got to get into the flow.  The taxis are pink, green, and bright blue, and everywhere the little for-hire motorbikes and wagons are streaming. On every corner are food carts, with savories or fresh fruit.  All the fruit is amazing.

Shopping in the city ranged from intensely local street markets, like this amulet market, to metropolitan malls as stylish as any I’ve seen in the west, and filled with all the same brand names (from Hermes, Chanel, Gucci to Abercrombie & Fitch or Starbucks.)

The amulet market was a section of the city, a few blocks, devoted to selling small charms, deity figures, buddhas, and the like.  Technically, Buddhas can’t be sold, they can only be rented for religious purposes.

Inside the malls in the other part of town, prices are still lower than urban western cities, but only by about 30%.  Renee and I visited a grocery store within one of those giant mall complexes, and it was more elaborate and beautiful than any Whole Foods I’ve ever visited in america:  we walked around for an hour marveling at the variety (and entire aisle labeled “Chips, Cuttlefish, and Peas”?  how specific) , the piles of mysterious giant and colorful fruits, and the endless sweet samples provided on toothpick by smiling employees.

Renee has the food in Bangkok down to a science, and I like predictability, so we ate every morning at Ricky’s, a french/vietnamese/thai styled place that served western food, good coffee, and fresh fruit.  Every lunch and dinner was at one of the two Mai KaiDee locations.  Mai KaiDee, the owner, runs a fully vegetarian business, and when she heard from Renee that I was coming to town and mostly ate raw, she was excited to try out new raw dishes with us.  So, despite my plan to be flexible about food in Thailand, raw vegan has proved readily available, and amazingly delicious.

Mai KaiDee, who also does classic thai dances, impromptu, during dinner, may be opening up a location in the US-  if so, it will be incredible.  Her version of thai vegetarian is better than any I’ve ever tried in america.

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bangkok- and food.

despite quite a bit of travel anxiety, the trip itself, all 37 hours, was smooth and not over-tiring. eleven hours on a plane (LHR-BKK) passes fairly quickly, when one has good books and movies on demand.

Traveling with Renee, who knows the country quite well, is a treat.  She likes to eat the same way I do, and my twelve hours or so here have been nicely bracketed by excellent meals, all within a minute walk of the guest house.

it’s very sweet here.

eating vegan is easy in Bangkok, and I’m not worrying about eating raw (as my typical, I don’t trust raw food in restaurants most of the time.)  there is fresh fruit on every corner, and everything is soooo inexpensive.

We had an incredible dinner for two last night-  eight dollars. all vegan-  hot & sour soup, maki rolls with peanut sauce, veggie rolls with cashew sauce, mint tea, thai tea….

and calling the US only costs 3 cents per minute!

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Thailand— traveling light

backpack

Next week I’m headed to Thailand with Renee from Waterlily Imports. Our plan is to travel really, really light.  As usual, my concern with traveling is avoiding being cold (which I can’t stand.)  Renee is an experience south-east-asia traveler, and insists that it will be 90 degrees plus all the time.

So, this is the start of my packing:  small daypack, easy-wash-&-dry clothing, a netbook, and not much more.

I’ll be posting from the trip.

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