week of thanksgiving

this morning I typed 178 email addresses into a text file for import to constant contact (I should schedule that activity more frequently.  Or maybe not.  tendency to clump activities like bookkeeping and importing hand-written newsletter signups on a quarterly basis.  or whenever I need to send a newsletter.)

Here’s a link to the newsletter.  And, while I do not email often, if you’d like to sign up there should be a box in the upper right of the screen.

Everyone knows this is a big shopping week, so I’m looking forward to visitors. :)

I’m obsessed with this new chocolate brown organic wool sweater.  I’ve worn it constantly since making it.  Maybe I need a second one. It has an asymmetrical zipper and sculptural collar, plus thumbholes.  matches the nailpolish too.  There will be more in store soon-  I’ve ordered bunches of long zippers.  I can make it in black, chocolate, cream, or charcoal organic wool jersey-  the best fabric ever.  for winter at least.

I had an interesting conversation with Emma.  She is a junior in high school, and interning with me for an hour a week.  She and I talk about high school occasionally. ( aside: I really wonder if I’m any kind of decent role model, having dropped out of every school I attended, including a drop-out attempt in kindergarten.)

however, I went to a very small public high school in Yarmouth, a fairly wealthy suburb of portland.  the student body was pretty homogeneous, to say the least.  I remember theatre people and sports people. Then there was the sophomore year that I spent almost entirely in the art room (somehow I got permission to not attend classes.)  And in junior year I left, so my memories of high school are fuzzy at best, and every time someone from ‘our class’ is mentioned by one of my two remaining high school friends, there is a 75% chance I’ll have no idea who they are talking about.

Emma asked me how I dressed in high school, if it was anything like I do now.  She’s got a great brit-influenced mix & match style thing going on herself, and was noting how, even in the city high school, the kids like to dress alike.

Most work days I wear the same style-  dress or skirt of my own design, tank top, and wool sweater top thing (just like the photo above.)  In the winter, add opaque organic cotton tights (which I’m going to start carrying in-store, they are so essential, and something I’ll never be able to make)  and a pair of boots. I stopped buying leather new, but still wear it and buy it second-hand.  Also-  in winter I like darker lipstick and very dark nailpolish. otherwise, I don’t wear makeup or jewelry, beyond simple earrings.

I’ve been trying to remember what, if anything, my high school style was like.  I only know I went through that phase of wearing all black and loving Breakfast at Tiffany’s.

onwards with the stream of consciousness this afternoon.

had a realization last night/ yesterday that my left brain activity is overwhelming and uncomfortable. Watch this video if you want to understand more how the left brain acts left unchecked.

Often I’ll have long days of sewing alone, which I love (on one hand)  but can lead to obsessive and analytical thought patterns (it can be repetitive work that I don’t need to concentrate on).  At these times a gentle or dramatic shift in perspective-  which shuts down the left brain chatter-  is so appreciated.  I need better techniques for enacting this shift on my own. (I don’t use drugs or drink…so not really options. meditation maybe.)

thanksgiving.

every year people ask me if I miss the typical thanksgiving foods.  the answer is no-  I’ve been a vegetarian for so long, and have zero desire to eat meat.  so thanksgiving has always been about the side vegetable dishes for me.  This year I’ll probably make some raw pie type dessert and a kale salad.  simple staples that everyone likes.

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reading

talking out at local 188 last night, realized I hardly ever read books anymore….on airplanes perhaps.  lately, I read blogs, and they fall into these categories:

  • personal development & small business blogs
  • economics
  • german-language fashion blogs
  • art & design blogs
  • learning & language acquisition
  • local-  people I know

there is a pretty extensive list through google reader I’m currently following.  I tend to unfollow those that post more than one or two items a day, because it’s frustrating to not keep up.

these are my favorites:

personal development & small-business:

(not a combined category-  these people actually write about personal development and how to grow successful small, location independent businesses.)

the fluent self – she writes about dealing with fears and “stuckness” in an whimsical way

the art of non-conformity-  he is traveling to every country in the world.  great views on remarkable living.

itty-biz-  very smart, amusing writing.

economics

marginal revolution-  these guys post a little more than I can keep up with, but sometimes the links are just incredible.  love the series called “markets in everything.”

predictably irrational- discussions about factoring in irrationality

seth’s blog-  one of the best writers.  conveys important business concepts in a paragraph

german-language fashion blogs

I don’t actually love reading fashion blogs, but I’m trying to learn german, so i follow a number that post exclusively in that language.

vintage jesus fashion

fieber.maedchen

what’s wrong with the zoo

art & design

regretsy-  ouch…lol. eww.

wooster collective

we make money not art

designboom-  I can’t keep up with the posting, but their photos are always big and beautiful

learning & language acquisition

AJATT-  the writer is amusing, verbose, and discusses becoming fluent in japanese-  but the techniques are applicable to other languages or topics

study hacks-  I just found this one.  well written.  some interesting articles for non-students.

local

overheard in portland-  that’s right, snippets of eavesdropping.  funny thing is, sometimes you can recognize the speakers by the descriptions.

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paint

‘camoflague’ by liu bolin

these are fascinating.  no photoshop used by the artist.

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rainy day project


the day was very productive. If you’re not in Portland, it POURED yesterday.

I painted bags-  when in action, the project covers every studio surface.

 

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i need things built. barter?

i love to think about storage solutions, but it takes me forever to implement them. usually because I resist spending money on things like furniture, especially for a work environment.  and I’m not interested in building stuff, unless it’s made of fabric and the only construction tools are thread and a sewing machine.

so here’s a wishlist with diagrams of things I’d love.  if anyone wants to help me.  barter?  here’s what I can offer-  clothes or websites. (I built this one, as well as www.locallyknownfoods.com  -  I can do html, css, a little php. no flash.)

and, the cellar is full of scrap wood if you need any.

fabric rolls storage rolling trolleys

so most fabric rolls are five feet long or more.  I need a rolling trolley that can slide under my big table, and has sides about two feet high.  ideally, I’ll have two trolleys. each one will have a footprint of 2.5×4.5 feet, and vertical sides on the long edge that are 22″ feet high.  see diagram.

trolley

hanging shelves

this place has beautiful exposed beam ceilings, so it’s easy to hang heavy objects.  These shelves are inspired by this J Morgan Puett piece (look to the left.)  They are airy and collapsible.

shelves

miscellaneous wooden boxes

sewing requires trims, and these come in various sizes and shapes.  right now I store these underneath my big table in the cardboard boxes that they shipped in.  It’s an unattractive solution, one I’d like to replace with a series of found and nicely finished wooden boxes.  They don’t have to be perfect or new, just have smooth, clean interiors.

here’s what the mess looks like right now (from it’s worst angle.  it’s kinda embarrassing.)

mess

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defining

I gave a talk about my work to a group of small business owners yesterday.  Preparing the presentation was interesting: it focused my attention on ways I’ve grown in the understanding of my work life.

Many people, myself included, find it difficult to come up with language describing what they do and how it’s different.  I’ve always struggled with it in the past.  Somehow though, a shift has occurred, and this time I was able to better articulate what my business is about and why I do, or don’t do, certain things.

here’s a replay of how it went:

brook there

  • slow fashion
  • handmade & made here
  • organic + sustainable
  • the look: clean with unusual details, curves, sculptural fabric use,  colors
  • the values: individualism, practicality, present-moment

background

I started sewing when I was a child, and I’ve been sewing 18 years at this point.  My mom got me 1960s patterns when I was twelve, and showed me how to cut and assemble the dresses.  As a teenager I was obsessed with sewing, and read every book I could find on the subject.  I learned most of the basics of sewing and design from books, and then refined them through extensive trial, error, and practice.

In college, I began selling one-of-a-kind pieces, first at Joseph’s and Amaryllis in the old port, and then at a store in Cambridge (Mass). I was in art school, which greatly inspired and influenced my approach to business.  Being young and  intimidated, I pretended it was a game, and piece of performance, which helped to remain detached and playful.

I left fashion for a few years to work at DeLorme (my father’s company).  The experience of working in a real corporate environment was invaluable, and gave me a confidence that I lacked before; the understanding of so many elements of a business that I would have struggled to learn alone. Plus, I learned a number of skills that now save me money-  photoshop, illustrator, html, css, php…

I started brook there in 2006.  When I had designed in college it was under my name (brook delorme.)  Now, often people think my name is brook there.  which is entertaining and somehow pleasing.

The retail store/ studio space on Wharf Street was opened in august of 2009.

favorite pieces and techniques

tubeshirt with thumbholes, shown in organic wool.  the shape flatters almost every body type, and the thumbholes keep hands warm.

tangled dress, from the fall 08 collection

pockets (preview of spring 2010, my new favorite dress.)  I’m crazy about pockets.

organic wool asymmetrical shirt, in store now.

fiber-reactive dyes = subtle color variation

one-of-a-kind pieces (and more pockets.)

what I do now:

  • design and pattern-make
  • sew
  • run retail store and website
  • run gallery at 37A day to day
  • bookkeeping
  • photography
  • website making
  • blog, a little social media

things I don’t do

  • advertise
  • custom work
  • alterations and tailoring for garments I didn’t make
  • tradeshows

tactics I have tried and abandoned (at least for now)

I’ve tried a lot of things.  I’ve done a number of things that I thought would be profitable, but were absolutely not.  When I started this business, I tried to analyze the way a ‘typical’ mid-to-high end small fashion company did business, and emulate it. That usually means sales reps, pr reps, wholesale, tradeshows, and contract sewing.

here’s what I found-  those strategies didn’t work for me.  it’s not to say they never will, but right now, the way I managed them, they didn’t.

this is where the bit about authenticity comes in.

my personality & moods walk the line between artist & entrepreneur.  I’ve got the moodiness of an artist, but a drive to run a business, promote my work, and receive recognition and money for it.

to have authenticity in my life, I’ve got to work as an artist and sell as an entrepreneur.

this combined retail-studio space, with its connectedness between the experiences of client and designer, and the performative aspect of creating in full view…this works.  for me. at this point in time.

current focuses

  • finalizing to photograph spring 2010
  • sewing new winter inventory, holiday dresses
  • keeping the store open
  • writing blog posts consistently
  • building other websites (for our gallery, etc)
  • designing fall 2010

37A

I spoke a little about the 37A gallery, which is a business in partnership with Daniel Pepice.  We’re going to show contemporary, challenging, and emerging art, focusing on installation work and other types of pieces that many commercial galleries in the area might not take on. We’ll have monthly shows of national and international artists, with first friday parties from 5-10pm.  The gallery actually opens as 37A in December of this year, with a show by Hannah Barnes.

Wharf Street

This street, to people familiar with Portland, has undergone a transformation in the past few years.  It was formerly heavy with a bar & party scene, but with a couple bars closing, and the new infusion of art & design, Wharf street is re-emerging as a street with local appeal.  With cobblestones and historic appeal, it’s one of those streets that look quintessentially Portland.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

and that was it.


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friendly


my mom took this picture from her polar bear safari.  he just looks so fuzzy and warm.

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live model

Clay did a great job as a live mannequin yesterday. :)

photo(2)

photo

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before, outside, and during

before the drywall dust settled and the primer was on, we had no idea it would look this clean.

outside, just after the show was put up. First show-  Daniel Pepice’s New Systems: Movie Pictures

the opening was full of people for five hours.

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Gallery Opening Tonight

New Systems: Movie Pictures by Daniel Pepice opens in 37A tonight! (That’s the space adjoining my store and just to the east.)

And I’m actually back to work today.  Or that’s the plan.

See you there-  6-10pm.

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