having a retail store

It’s been a year since I signed this lease and opened the store on wharf street. 90% of the time I love it:  it’s like having an open studio.  I can work all day and not feel lonely because people come visit.  I’ve learned so much about why certain fits and styles sell well, and I’ve come to better understand my customer. (women, creative professionals, upper income brackets, 35-60, urban [most are new york or boston])…

here's the space just after I moved in.

Some of the things that have surprised me:  people in portland love my clothes (voted best women’s clothing shop in the phoenix) but most of my actual sales are to out-of-towners.  I’m sure this is partially price-point…$200 for a dress is cheap in a bigger city but expensive here.   I’ve also been pleased that the clothes are attractive to women older than my generation.

and after painting and some organizing

The most important part, for me, about having a retail store is that I don’t have to SELL.  If I were focused on wholesale, I’d spend a chunk of time either at tradeshows or contacting buyers and trying to get them to look at my stuff.  Instead, I spend my time in my studio, and people can come in if they want to.  And my interaction with customers comes with a very light touch (it’s mostly “hello” and, if they seem open “where are you from?”).

The other good part is that my work and home are separated, even if only by a few blocks. (or, more realistically, one block.  It takes me two minutes to walk home.) Sewing is, unfortunately, a stuff-intensive process.  I wish it were simpler, but unless I used one type of fabric, in one color, with no trims (i.e. zippers, buttons)…it’s hard to keep a handle on the excess stuff.  Because I don’t want to throw out that quarter yard of beautiful silk!  It might make a lovely collar someday!

a more recent photo....

Even with a totally minimalist approach to materials, one still needs the machines.  A professional sewing machine weighs about 150lbs (and I need two: a straight-stitch and an overlock), and the big table is a necessity for efficiency.

Is there a downside to the store? Sure. I get anti-social, and sometimes lock the door so I can work without interruption. Or, I travel and there’s nobody to run the store. I feel, sometimes, that having the store limits the amount I can travel…but I miss it when I am gone. So it’s a balance.

and when it comes down to it, I love Portland and Maine. I’ve traveled enough to big cities and other countries to know how much I love it here.

I think I should take some more photos of the studio side of the shop….

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lately I’ve been up to:

1. a photoshoot:  preview of the lovely Chloe on a rainy wharf street day.  She brought her own shoes, which just seemed to fit with the grey/green/pales color theme.

2. making summer inventory for the store.  There have been a few good weekends so far this summer, with customers from Boston and New York.  I’m sort of used to it now, but most of my retail sales are to people from the big cities.  It’s not a critique of Portland, which I love dearly, but my clothes tend to be on the pricier side and sell better to out-of-staters.

Sometimes I’m surprised by the items that turn out to be great sellers.  I always make clothes I want to wear, and lately this means summer dresses with pockets.  This pocket shift dress (far right below), with or without the coconut shell belt, has done really well.

The other best sellers are always the tall neck dresses-middle (more pockets!)  and the tubeshirts with thumbholes (left).

(you can buy these items by emailing brook@brookthere.com or on etsy!)

3. learning how to make zenphoto themes (updating the 37A site.)  I was pleased to find that zenphoto is organized in a style very similar to wordpress.  however, the documentation seems much less mature, and possibly was written by non-native english speakers.  So, there’s been a lot more wading through php, which is, um, good for me.

4. languages.  I’ve found that translating something I’ve found online or in a book from a foreign language to english is one of the most calming activities I know. I actually use it as a ‘calm-down’ technique when I’m panicking, scared, or otherwise freaking out.  For a while, I was wondering if this is because it activates the right brain, but, nope, seems to be left.  For righties, at least.  which I am.

So I’ve been ‘reading’ (which really means translating onto notepad) “Sternstunden der Menscheit”.  Reading German is still really difficult for me, all the looooong sentences, so this practice helps.

5.  considering acquiring a new camera, specifically one that can do high-res video such as the Canon 5d ii.
I’m interested in making videos about sewing, patternmaking, and design.  More on that later.

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sitting outside because it’s warm

look at this new bench we’ve got…yes, those shapes are taken from sleeve patterns -  even up to including the pattern hook punchhole.

again, nice wood work by Young.

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new sign

we got a new sign!  now you’ll be able to find the store.

(thanks Young!)

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rainy day project


the day was very productive. If you’re not in Portland, it POURED yesterday.

I painted bags-  when in action, the project covers every studio surface.

 

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i need things built. barter?

i love to think about storage solutions, but it takes me forever to implement them. usually because I resist spending money on things like furniture, especially for a work environment.  and I’m not interested in building stuff, unless it’s made of fabric and the only construction tools are thread and a sewing machine.

so here’s a wishlist with diagrams of things I’d love.  if anyone wants to help me.  barter?  here’s what I can offer-  clothes or websites. (I built this one, as well as www.locallyknownfoods.com  -  I can do html, css, a little php. no flash.)

and, the cellar is full of scrap wood if you need any.

fabric rolls storage rolling trolleys

so most fabric rolls are five feet long or more.  I need a rolling trolley that can slide under my big table, and has sides about two feet high.  ideally, I’ll have two trolleys. each one will have a footprint of 2.5×4.5 feet, and vertical sides on the long edge that are 22″ feet high.  see diagram.

trolley

hanging shelves

this place has beautiful exposed beam ceilings, so it’s easy to hang heavy objects.  These shelves are inspired by this J Morgan Puett piece (look to the left.)  They are airy and collapsible.

shelves

miscellaneous wooden boxes

sewing requires trims, and these come in various sizes and shapes.  right now I store these underneath my big table in the cardboard boxes that they shipped in.  It’s an unattractive solution, one I’d like to replace with a series of found and nicely finished wooden boxes.  They don’t have to be perfect or new, just have smooth, clean interiors.

here’s what the mess looks like right now (from it’s worst angle.  it’s kinda embarrassing.)

mess

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patterns & gift cards

new at the store and online:  pretty gift cards in little boxes.  variable amounts, packaged with a bow, ready to ship.  :)

also:  doesn’t this pattern for some winter gloves look pretty cool?

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recently added…

since Mondays are the day before my mid-week weekend (i.e. my friday) -  it seems apropos to do a weekly wrap-up-  things sewn, designed, and discovered…

by the way…  I am finding that mid-week weekends are not very restful, because other people like to schedule meetings ;-)   and I’m inclined to go into the studio and make stuff anyway.

sewn:

this week was focused on getting more inventory in the store, designing gift cards (coming soon), making new shopping bags, and updating the website.

now, when I write “getting more inventory in the store”  that means-  I cut and sew a pile of things. :)

it was mostly black items, with a few red-  added many XS sizes as well.  on the left of the photo-  new leggings!  my favorite garment these cold days.  I wear them day and night-  under skirts and to sleep in.

other favorite-  the wool tubeshirts.  see the new gray XS in the center of the photo?  I wear my wool tubeshirts almost everyday.  warm, functional, flattering.

designed:

the open sign below inspired the new shopping bags- which are, yes, all individually painted. but it’s enjoyable, meditative work, and something I’ll probably replace with printing…maybe.  it was thanks to Kevin’s persistent vision that these got painted at all :-)

beyond the physical objects (my favorite, as I need to do handwork to feel sane)- I did website updates (still ongoing.) the online store is back, and mens items can be ordered through the website..

discovered:

I read a lot of personal development blogs, as I’ve mentioned before, and like the exercise of mentally generating an “ideal place”, a sanctuary of sorts.  mine is, ironically and surprising even to me, filled with sewing machines.  It’s a beautiful ocean-facing semi-open house, with a large selection of industrial machines and mannequins…button hole machines, zigzag machines, different types of overlocks…basically, if I wanted to own a few tons of machines, they’d all be in this ideal environment.  Plus, dressforms of all sizes, male ones too and the ones with legs.  A little sitting area with an ever-changing array of couches, chairs, and small tables.  tea and coffee.

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august cleanup.

it’s been spring cleaning in august at home, inspired by some friends of mine who, at the same age as I am, actually manage to live like adults, in houses with real furniture, lacking clutter.  I mean, who needs a dozen pairs of scissors and a five year supply of scotch tape?  (me, apparently.) I’m ok with sleeping on a futon on the floor, but can do without the fabric scrap I put up with thumbtacks as a curtain, and the cheap self-assembled furniture that’s now falling apart… It’s good timing anyway:  now that I’ve leased the space on wharf street for my studio/store, I can move all the sewing supplies still residing at home to wharf street.

last week I finally arranged my house to hopefully, have less electrical pollution:  removed the wifi, cordless phone, CFL bulbs.  I started charging my cellphone and laptops away from where I sleep.  hoping this will lead to better rest.  we’ll see.

during the spring cleaning, I found this old datebook.  It’s so beautiful.  Makes me nostalgic for the paper days.

I’ve almost run out of my beloved moo cards, and resorted to some handmade ones at the shop today.  More moo cards coming on tuesday.

I meant to add this photo last week, before the clothing racks were put together. Many thanks to Mark for explaining this technique. It was fun buying the pieces as well:  many of the folks working in home depot seem to be retired from related professions, and the older man who was cutting these to length for me was insistent that I was going to need specialized tools to assemble. I tried to explain that I didn’t need them to be either watertight or support much weight, but to no avail.  Turns out they are really easy to put together, with another person’s help (leverage.)  thank you, Kevin. I’m glad all my friends like merchandising.  It’s the sort of thing I don’t really think about.

I’m really loving the combined studio/ shop experience.  Last time I worked retail I was 18, and it was at a chain clothing store in the mall.  it was awful, I left after two months.  pushy sales has never been my thing.  but working on wharf street is so lovely-  people who come in are amazing, supportive, and friendly.  plus, I can sort of do whatever I would normally do…internet surf, blog, write, drink coffee, sew, talk to friends, draw…perfect job.

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olden mini


if you know anyone who has one of these to sell, I’m interested!  but a cheap one please….not looking for perfect condition-completely remodeled…any color is fine.  though orange would be cool.

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