historical perspective

I just turned off comments for all blog posts prior to 2010…as anyone with a blog knows, sifting through the hundreds of spam comments for the real ones is, well, time consuming.

So it was a bit of a trip down memory lane.  I started this version of the blog about two years ago.  (I’ve had various blogs and a tumblr for perhaps six years, but they’ve gone through transformations, transportations, and the original one, sadly, was destroyed.  permanently.  by me. note to self-  always keep a backup in case you change your mind.  at that time, I intentionally deleted it.  goodbye forever 2004-2007.)

however, it’s also the one year anniversary, or roundabout there, of my shop on wharf street.

So, during the process of turning off comments for ~ 2 years worth of posts, I was reminded of the places I’ve been (mentally and physically) in the past couple of years.

to summarize in a few sentences the things I’ve mostly written about — (there is more to my life than these items, but I don’t write about everything :)

raw food: feel much better physically now that I’ve stopped eating raw.  I’m thinking that all raw for long periods of time doesn’t work for everyone.  still eat vegan.

business: sorting (continually) what sort of business I want to have.  Right now preferring something with low-geographic commitments.

organization: this is just a catch-all word I use for when I’d like to understand something in a concrete sequential kind of way:  i.e. take it apart, analyze the pieces, and put them into pretty boxes.  characterized by quizzes, spreadsheets, databases, and other forms of linear organization.  similar to languages, very calming. used with personality attributes, financial management, minimalism, thoughts & philosophies.  aka RULES

language: have grown to LOVE language learning.  it calms me down.

people: haven’t written much about this, but the past 5 years really have been about learning to be more discerning and discriminating regarding who I let into my life.

(ironically, I rarely write about fashion-  or even think about it.)

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idioms and context

Last night, we had an interesting discussion regarding translations, particularly of the bible.  My point of contention with reading the bible and trying to gain any literal meaning from it stems from the complexity of simple translations even from contemporary cultures.  You have to be culturally knowledgeable to make a translation, and nobody is culturally knowledgeable about the time periods during which old texts were written.

just look at these examples:
Geist in German means both mind and/or spirit, depending on the context.
ใจ in Thai means both heart and/or mind, depending on the context.

In english, mind generally means “the part of us that does the thinking”, which most of us agree is the brain.
For example, the phrase “blessed are the poor in spirit.”
So this could be mistranslated to read:
“blessed are the poor in heart”
“blessed are the poor in mind”
“blessed are the poor in brain”

And that is just one word.  I think, in this context, the correct translation for “poor” would have been humble.  Even 150 years ago that was a contemporary meaning for poor, however, it’s not anymore.

Of course, I’m not a bible scholar or anything of the sort, but biblical phrases are tossed around so liberally and literally and I can’t help but think they are generally mistranslated.

how do you translate an idiom that’s two or three thousand years old from a dead culture anyway?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The other day I was watching a youtube video on making samurai swords.  (rather, we were watching, that’s not a typical activity of mine alone. :)   They were describing properties of the different metals, using words like hard, tensile, brittle, ductile.  I had an interesting realization partway through the video:  I didn’t know the word ductile before, but now I knew what it meant.

It’s very rare for me to see an english word I don’t know, apart from nouns (particularly in a technical context.)  When I hear a new noun, my thought process is automatically “what does that mean” and I look it up or ask the question.

But hearing a new adjective was a different experience.  I didn’t think to ask ‘what does that mean’, instead, the answers were filled in by the context.  I still haven’t looked it up, but ductile, when used in the metal-smithing context by a British person, means flexible.  Or more flexible than other, harder metals.

This realization was fascinating because it’s a very small clarity about how language acquisition works.  I’m at the point with german that new adjectives now function the same way ‘ductile’ did for me in english-  the automatic filling in of meaning from context occurs. (only there are many many more of them :)   I had been worried about it in my German studies: I wondered why I thought I knew what these words meant in context, when I was pretty certain I wouldn’t even be sure whether they were adjectives or verbs outside of a sentence.

but just hearing that one new english adjective made me feel so much better. it’s just the same process for all languages.

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minimalism vs making

I have a fascination with the idea of minimal and nomadic lifestyles.  There are various web memes regarding these subjects, such as the one of living with only 50 or 75 or 100 possessions (those numbers exclude furniture and shared items such as kitchen tools) or spending one’s life in a nomadic fashion, through perpetual camping, couch-surfing, or RV-ing.

The irony is, of course, that I spend my life making physical objects.  I look around at the tools of my trade: a cutting table that’s 6×12 feet, a few sewing machines that easily weigh 150 pounds apiece, and the rolls of fabric.  all the notions that allow the making of garments: thread, buttons, zippers.  typically I buy in bulk because it’s cheaper-  so I have, say, a hundred black 18″ invisible zippers.

Then there’s the locational commitment.  I’m two-thirds of the way through a three year lease on two retail locations in the downtown of Portland.

I sometimes (often) fantasize about giving it all up and traveling.  The problem, of course, is that I like making things.  I could (and do) earn money in other ways, and I can find a level of satisfaction in building websites.  But I don’t think it would satisfy my need to sew clothing, as artistic expression.

Ten years ago in college, I made the very conscious decision to discontinue making art objects and only make clothing.  It satisfied the functional aspect of minimalism, while still permitting the making.

Generally speaking, my personal tendency is towards non-extreme minimalism.  When I’m not at work, I wear the same thing every day.  Shopping is not something I do for fun. I usually only buy clothing if I’m stranded away from home and cold. I don’t buy art or have it on my walls. Most of the clothes I have I made.  I even keep my computer desktop a flat, neutral color, usually pale lavender.

I do indulge in technology, and have, um, a few computers (less than I used to though!)  I tend to buy books, not borrow them. I have tons of exotic kitchen equipment from the raw food days.  Since writing is the primary way I learn, I have piles of notebooks filled with language studies or other thoughts.

but I also love to make lists of the things I would keep were I to give up the making-stuff business and just live with 100 items. and I love to read other people’s lists. (here are two from far beyond the stars and exile lifestyle )

And I love the make lists of the places I would go and the languages I will learn.

The thing, however, is that I love making clothing, and I feel pretty good at it now.  I would and do miss my sewing room whenever I travel for more than a week.  I’m trying to come up with an alternative minimalism that encompasses an art-making practice, one where the aesthetic isn’t particularly minimal either.

Some ideas:

1. have only 50 personal possessions, excluding things I made (one way I promote my work is, of course, by wearing my designs. So I don’t really want to limit the ownership of clothing I made.)

2. books don’t count.  notebooks don’t count. furniture and cooking tools don’t count.  food doesn’t count. underwear and socks count as groups.

3.  create a separate count for the tools of my trade: sewing machines, cutting tables, scissors, notchers, etc.  Not counted are raw materials: fabric, thread, buttons.  Also not counted, or counted in groups: things like clothing hangers, pricetags, etc required to sell the clothing.

4. really, seriously consider any purchases for the clothing business and how to avoid them.  I am already doing this to a certain extent.  Over the past year my fabric & notion purchases have dropped dramatically, as I focus on creatively using that which I already own…which is a lot. yes, it’s good for the bottom line, but it’s also in-line with a sustainable practice.  One sort-of unexpected outcome has been that I am happier with the designs being created-  they are more one of a kind, often incorporating unusual piecing techniques to reduce fabric waste-  but I don’t really know how to sell one-of-a-kind things wholesale…so haven’t been doing that at all.

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thai language learning project

For about a year and a half now, language learning has been my favorite way to relax.

Every morning, after waking, I eat breakfast, drink coffee, and study language for an hour or two.  It sets my mood to ‘calm’ for the day.  If I get overwhelmed or stressed out with life or work- my preferred remedy is to sit down with the language books.

This year it’s thai, last year was german.  I’m inclined to learn either vietnamese or arabic next year. or javascript.

Something about the process of language acquisition must set the brain into a calming state.  Or at least it’s that way for me.  I’m sure, in part, the complete lack of deadline or purpose helps…it’s not like this is schoolwork or homework.

But onto the details:

Thai has proved, no surprise, MUCH MUCH more difficult that German. After a couple months studying german, I could partake in simple conversation, and write daily in past and future tense in my journal.  Far from perfect, but intelligible.

For about the first month of studying Thai I just focused on learning the alphabet, reading, and writing.  It’s a more complex system than ours, as I described before and, of course, just learning a new alphabet is tough.

Furthermore, Thai doesn’t use word spacing (!) and many of their words are really compounds. i.e.:

ร้านตัดผม

shop-cut-hair = barbershop

เสื้อกันหนาว

shirt-keep-out-cold = sweater

โรงรถ

large-building-car = garage

and so on.  In a way, it’s nice, because you can try to guess what new words mean.  The tricky part is figuring out where the new words begin and end since they are all clumped together.

ฉันสวมเสื้อกันหนาวที่ร้านตัดผมและรถของฉันอยู่ในโรงรถ

(that reads: I wear a sweater to the barber shop and my car is in the garage.)

Another kind of amazing feature of the language-  and I’ve heard this is kinda common in asian languages, though thai has a special abundance of them-  is the numerical classifier.  I’m not even going to try to attempt to explain what it is, but you can mentally compare it to needing to learn a different way to say “the” or “a/an” for every single noun.  There’s a better explanation of this part of language here: Thai-Language.com (my favorite online dictionary.)

One really cool thing about Thai is that there are lots of online, super-comprehensive language learning tools.  Excellent dictionaries, online tv, etc.  I just found this site the other day, written by a native-english speaking woman living in Bangkok-  and her awesome list of free online resources: womenlearnthai.com.

So far, my approach to studying has been:

1. learn to read and write the alphabet, even without knowing hardly any language.

2. study with an SRS (I use Mnemosyne)

3. Rosetta Stone level 1 (the only level available. I used Pimsleur levels 1-3 for German and prefer it; I think it better prepares you for conversation. But I wanted to see what Rosetta stone was like. Both systems are really expensive.)

4. Thai for Intermediate Learners by Benjawan Poomsan Becker- going through the lessons and doing a lot of handwriting

5.  Thai, an Essential Grammar by David Smyth – just reading this one.

6. Newest tactic: just listening to thai TV, even though I can’t understand a thing-  at fukduk.tv

7. reading blogs about thai culture and current events at www.bangkokpost.com -to stay inspired.

Final thought:  as I’ve mentioned, my non-arts schooling post 9th grade was minimal, and while I tend to speak and write english well, I have no idea how to identify parts of speech, let alone diagram a sentence.  Trying to understand subject/ object/ indirect object (necessary to speak German correctly) has proved REALLY difficult. verbs and nouns I’ve got down, :) -but structures like cases (in german, nominative, dative, accusative, genitive)  have been a mystery.  I was always trying to understand them through my understanding of english-  and it wasn’t until my Mom explained this last month-  english doesnt even have cases.

thai doesn’t either, thankfully.
:)

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more on language

since my resolution in the beginning of 2009 to learn German, I’ve become semi-obsessed with the practice of language learning.  Being in Thailand seemed an opportune time to learn an asian, tonal, language with a different alphabet.

I did learn to speak, read and write German last year, without any immersion.  I am, by no means, fluent, and have a rather crummy accent, but I can converse about practically any non-abstract topic-  you know, things done, food, going places, movies, books.  Philosophical and conceptual would be beyond my reach.  And, when speaking with German people, I definitely need them to be speaking to me. Following others’ overheard conversations is too difficult as of yet.

My approach, during the first six months, was to write in German for about an hour a day (in a journal, good for practicing tenses), study using an SRS (spaced repetition system, i.e. software that functions as build-your-own flashcards-  I use Mnemosyne)-  usually fifteen minutes a day-  and converse for an hour or two a week.

I learn by writing, or by doing.  Audio and auditory learning has never been my strong suit. (I also don’t process my thoughts out loud, which is a product of being very introverted on the Meyers Briggs scoring…)  I ought to practice more conversationally and out-loud, but, since it’s not personally as enjoyable or interesting…it doesn’t happen as frequently.

Thai, being tonal with five tones (low, middle, high, rising, falling) requires listening and speaking to achieve any practical use.  I have trouble even hearing most of the tones (rising and falling are pretty easy to hear, but the others are much trickier for me.)

So, I started by learning to read since I don’t know how to teach myself without being literate. This has evolved into pages and pages of handwriting practice, followed by learning to use keyboard inputs so I can add words to Mnemosyne or look them up online…

learning to read the tones has proved the most challenging. I expected it to be fairly straightforward, but it is, instead, a complicated formula that involves memorizing the base tone of all the consonants (41?), the vowels (45), whether a vowel is short or long, the tone marks (4), shortening & muting marks (3), consonant irregularities, and then the formula that relates all these variables to provide the syllable tone.

but I keep reminding myself, at least I don’t have to learn 3000 kanji to be literate!

(Renee’s photo of our of our typical hotel evenings.)

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on packing

i could have brought so much less stuff.  As it was, I did pack light; everything I needed fit in the yellow backpack (osprey talon 22 liters) but I brought a mostly empty suitcase to carry home things I bought (fabric, buttons, thai fisherman pants, etc.)

The green purse was great for day to day, and big enough to fit my asus eee netbook.

Things I would bring next time that I forgot or didn’t bring enough of:

  • my headlamp
  • vitamin C
  • echinacia
  • probiotics (even here, where the food is pretty clean, I got food poisoning, exacerbated by motion sickness)
  • more lightweight wool clothing ( I like icebreaker’s fabric, I need to figure out where to source something similar.)
  • a fork and spoon

Things I definitely didn’t need to bring:

  • jeans/ pants (I wore leggings, dresses, or shorts all the time.)
  • books (well, at least as many as I brought.)
  • a sweater (I brought it for the plane, but it was really bulky the entire trip in my suitcase.)

Next trip, I know I only need to bring a few each of:

  • lightweight wool underwear and a long-sleeve shirt (icebreaker, etc)
  • light shorts
  • loose shirt dress
  • scarf (for plane)
  • shell jacket (for plane-  from nau)
  • leggings
  • light anorak (shown stuffed inside its pocket, orange, from nau )
  • a few light tank tops and tank dresses (the ones I wore I bought here-  they dried super-quick after washing in the sink)
  • chuck-taylor type sneakers and light wool socks, ankle and calf height

I brought other stuff this trip…but it was all unused.  better to have quick-drying wool and extra-lightweight cotton pieces than anything extra.  I always get really, really cold on the airplanes, and need special clothing for the travel portion.

most of the electronics I brought were perfect. I am so happy with the size of the asus eee, I’m overlooking the inconvenience of using windows.  also was happy I brought the lightweight camping towel, and my homemade silk sleep sack (why spend $65 when I have piles of scrap silk in my studio…so i have a patchwork sleepsack-  black, black & white polkadot, and purple…)

I’d also bring enough regular toothpaste so I don’t need to buy some suspect brand where the ingredients are all in thai!

and the things I overpacked…if I’d been traveling alone I probably would have read more, but as it was, I only read two books. and then I bought piles of blank books, and colored pencils and paper and sketching materials…which were used, to be sure.

so, the plan for next trip-  pack lighter, and plan to buy stuff in situ.  it’s hard to predict what will feel right, stylistically or functionally, in a new environment.  I could have stayed 3 months with only this small yellow backpack and the list above, and I wonder at the backpackers I see who are carrying packs that tower above their heads!

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i need things built. barter?

i love to think about storage solutions, but it takes me forever to implement them. usually because I resist spending money on things like furniture, especially for a work environment.  and I’m not interested in building stuff, unless it’s made of fabric and the only construction tools are thread and a sewing machine.

so here’s a wishlist with diagrams of things I’d love.  if anyone wants to help me.  barter?  here’s what I can offer-  clothes or websites. (I built this one, as well as www.locallyknownfoods.com  -  I can do html, css, a little php. no flash.)

and, the cellar is full of scrap wood if you need any.

fabric rolls storage rolling trolleys

so most fabric rolls are five feet long or more.  I need a rolling trolley that can slide under my big table, and has sides about two feet high.  ideally, I’ll have two trolleys. each one will have a footprint of 2.5×4.5 feet, and vertical sides on the long edge that are 22″ feet high.  see diagram.

trolley

hanging shelves

this place has beautiful exposed beam ceilings, so it’s easy to hang heavy objects.  These shelves are inspired by this J Morgan Puett piece (look to the left.)  They are airy and collapsible.

shelves

miscellaneous wooden boxes

sewing requires trims, and these come in various sizes and shapes.  right now I store these underneath my big table in the cardboard boxes that they shipped in.  It’s an unattractive solution, one I’d like to replace with a series of found and nicely finished wooden boxes.  They don’t have to be perfect or new, just have smooth, clean interiors.

here’s what the mess looks like right now (from it’s worst angle.  it’s kinda embarrassing.)

mess

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defining

I gave a talk about my work to a group of small business owners yesterday.  Preparing the presentation was interesting: it focused my attention on ways I’ve grown in the understanding of my work life.

Many people, myself included, find it difficult to come up with language describing what they do and how it’s different.  I’ve always struggled with it in the past.  Somehow though, a shift has occurred, and this time I was able to better articulate what my business is about and why I do, or don’t do, certain things.

here’s a replay of how it went:

brook there

  • slow fashion
  • handmade & made here
  • organic + sustainable
  • the look: clean with unusual details, curves, sculptural fabric use,  colors
  • the values: individualism, practicality, present-moment

background

I started sewing when I was a child, and I’ve been sewing 18 years at this point.  My mom got me 1960s patterns when I was twelve, and showed me how to cut and assemble the dresses.  As a teenager I was obsessed with sewing, and read every book I could find on the subject.  I learned most of the basics of sewing and design from books, and then refined them through extensive trial, error, and practice.

In college, I began selling one-of-a-kind pieces, first at Joseph’s and Amaryllis in the old port, and then at a store in Cambridge (Mass). I was in art school, which greatly inspired and influenced my approach to business.  Being young and  intimidated, I pretended it was a game, and piece of performance, which helped to remain detached and playful.

I left fashion for a few years to work at DeLorme (my father’s company).  The experience of working in a real corporate environment was invaluable, and gave me a confidence that I lacked before; the understanding of so many elements of a business that I would have struggled to learn alone. Plus, I learned a number of skills that now save me money-  photoshop, illustrator, html, css, php…

I started brook there in 2006.  When I had designed in college it was under my name (brook delorme.)  Now, often people think my name is brook there.  which is entertaining and somehow pleasing.

The retail store/ studio space on Wharf Street was opened in august of 2009.

favorite pieces and techniques

tubeshirt with thumbholes, shown in organic wool.  the shape flatters almost every body type, and the thumbholes keep hands warm.

tangled dress, from the fall 08 collection

pockets (preview of spring 2010, my new favorite dress.)  I’m crazy about pockets.

organic wool asymmetrical shirt, in store now.

fiber-reactive dyes = subtle color variation

one-of-a-kind pieces (and more pockets.)

what I do now:

  • design and pattern-make
  • sew
  • run retail store and website
  • run gallery at 37A day to day
  • bookkeeping
  • photography
  • website making
  • blog, a little social media

things I don’t do

  • advertise
  • custom work
  • alterations and tailoring for garments I didn’t make
  • tradeshows

tactics I have tried and abandoned (at least for now)

I’ve tried a lot of things.  I’ve done a number of things that I thought would be profitable, but were absolutely not.  When I started this business, I tried to analyze the way a ‘typical’ mid-to-high end small fashion company did business, and emulate it. That usually means sales reps, pr reps, wholesale, tradeshows, and contract sewing.

here’s what I found-  those strategies didn’t work for me.  it’s not to say they never will, but right now, the way I managed them, they didn’t.

this is where the bit about authenticity comes in.

my personality & moods walk the line between artist & entrepreneur.  I’ve got the moodiness of an artist, but a drive to run a business, promote my work, and receive recognition and money for it.

to have authenticity in my life, I’ve got to work as an artist and sell as an entrepreneur.

this combined retail-studio space, with its connectedness between the experiences of client and designer, and the performative aspect of creating in full view…this works.  for me. at this point in time.

current focuses

  • finalizing to photograph spring 2010
  • sewing new winter inventory, holiday dresses
  • keeping the store open
  • writing blog posts consistently
  • building other websites (for our gallery, etc)
  • designing fall 2010

37A

I spoke a little about the 37A gallery, which is a business in partnership with Daniel Pepice.  We’re going to show contemporary, challenging, and emerging art, focusing on installation work and other types of pieces that many commercial galleries in the area might not take on. We’ll have monthly shows of national and international artists, with first friday parties from 5-10pm.  The gallery actually opens as 37A in December of this year, with a show by Hannah Barnes.

Wharf Street

This street, to people familiar with Portland, has undergone a transformation in the past few years.  It was formerly heavy with a bar & party scene, but with a couple bars closing, and the new infusion of art & design, Wharf street is re-emerging as a street with local appeal.  With cobblestones and historic appeal, it’s one of those streets that look quintessentially Portland.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

and that was it.


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august cleanup.

it’s been spring cleaning in august at home, inspired by some friends of mine who, at the same age as I am, actually manage to live like adults, in houses with real furniture, lacking clutter.  I mean, who needs a dozen pairs of scissors and a five year supply of scotch tape?  (me, apparently.) I’m ok with sleeping on a futon on the floor, but can do without the fabric scrap I put up with thumbtacks as a curtain, and the cheap self-assembled furniture that’s now falling apart… It’s good timing anyway:  now that I’ve leased the space on wharf street for my studio/store, I can move all the sewing supplies still residing at home to wharf street.

last week I finally arranged my house to hopefully, have less electrical pollution:  removed the wifi, cordless phone, CFL bulbs.  I started charging my cellphone and laptops away from where I sleep.  hoping this will lead to better rest.  we’ll see.

during the spring cleaning, I found this old datebook.  It’s so beautiful.  Makes me nostalgic for the paper days.

I’ve almost run out of my beloved moo cards, and resorted to some handmade ones at the shop today.  More moo cards coming on tuesday.

I meant to add this photo last week, before the clothing racks were put together. Many thanks to Mark for explaining this technique. It was fun buying the pieces as well:  many of the folks working in home depot seem to be retired from related professions, and the older man who was cutting these to length for me was insistent that I was going to need specialized tools to assemble. I tried to explain that I didn’t need them to be either watertight or support much weight, but to no avail.  Turns out they are really easy to put together, with another person’s help (leverage.)  thank you, Kevin. I’m glad all my friends like merchandising.  It’s the sort of thing I don’t really think about.

I’m really loving the combined studio/ shop experience.  Last time I worked retail I was 18, and it was at a chain clothing store in the mall.  it was awful, I left after two months.  pushy sales has never been my thing.  but working on wharf street is so lovely-  people who come in are amazing, supportive, and friendly.  plus, I can sort of do whatever I would normally do…internet surf, blog, write, drink coffee, sew, talk to friends, draw…perfect job.

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color organization

I enjoy being in environments that are arranged by color groupings.

first two images below are from my just-opened store.  last one is of my bookshelf at home.

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